Pioneertown Motel Ain’t Like It Used to Be — Your New Desert Destination

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Long ago and far away, I stayed in a quaint little motel with shabby antiques and a kind of creepy kitchenette. It had benefits: good star gazing and walking distance from Pappy and Harriet’s, where I’d gone to see one concert or another.

That used to be the Pioneertown Motel. But, times, and motel rooms, have changed. Now showing off a sleek but mellow modern desert chic vibe, the stars are still there for the watching – along with the perfect viewing spot, a bright stone outdoor fireplace to keep you warm, and you’re still walking distance to music and the desert version nightlife.

Today’s Pioneertown Motel is welcoming, warm, and western in style – the motel office is a dusty looking little miner’s shack, the rooms feature touches like cowhide on the floor and wagon wheel lamps on the ceiling. The rooms are spacious, artistically simple, and include touches of western art and artifacts along with location-themed art and plants. Furniture maker Dan Anderson has created comfortable, versatile, aesthetically fitting furnishings – think wood and leather.

A big game room, called the Canteen, has outdoor and indoor tables, and houses a fridge for cold beverages, as well as offering a nice stash of games and books and magazines.

The Red Dog Saloon, from the same affable and stylish owners as the motel, is a short stroll away, and offers tacos and brews and whiskeys in a comfortably clubby room just steps from that outdoor fireplace, should you be able to tear yourself away.  it’s open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner – try the mushroom taco and the Rajas Quesadilla with smoky pasilla peppers.  And, the aforementioned Pappy and Harriet’s still serves up BBQ and music just a few steps further on.

When we stayed at the motel we had a unique experience which made us love it even more: PG&E was doing line repair work, and power was out for a few hours. It was just us, the firelight, the stars, and the sound of the desert wind. While you probably won’t have that experience, the desert’s drama and magic is still right outside the door. The Pioneer Mountains Reserve is a great spot for hiking or horseback riding, and of course you’re also a short drive from Joshua Tree National Park.

So giddyup partner, and head on out to Pioneertown, where the motel is now blissfully luxe – but not pretentious, no siree; the view as pristine as ever; the stars just as bright.

  • Genie Davis; photos by Genie Davis

 

 

Catalina Dreamin’

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If you’re longing for an island getaway, without the flight to Hawaii, Catalina Island is a great choice. With spring weather finally showing up for SoCal, taking a smooth and quick Catalina Express boat from Long Beach, San Pedro, or Newport Beach will land you in Avalon Harbor in just over an hour (a bit longer from the OC).

We stayed in the Hotel Atwater, which has been beautifully refurbished, from the elegant, art deco lobby – replete with a harp, to the tasteful, plush rooms, blissfully quiet rooms, too. Done in understated creams and pastels, the rooms exude a hushed but unpretentious elegance. Adjoining the lobby, guests can easily pass into a covered shopping area that includes a coffee bar that makes a nice stop for a morning bagel and of course, a cup of your favorite a.m. beverage.

For lunch or dinner, try the perfect bluewater view at, naturally the Bluewater Grill. Fresh fish, views for miles, an airy, maritime-themed dining room, and a capacious patio, plus terrific cocktails make this a must-stop. And of course, their renowned fresh baked sourdough bread. The buttery sauteed sand dabs with capers were perfect in a light, refreshin lemon buere blanc. Served with decadently rich scalloped potatoes and flavorful well-prepared spinach, it was a classic dish that tasted freshly caught. The same freshness was more than evident in the Black & Blue Ahi, served two ways: blackened and seared rare with a slightly spicy, delicious wakame seaweed salad, wasabi cream, coconut ginger rice, and broccolini. For dessert, a smooth, fluffy key lime pie. My cocktail was a well-seasoned meal in itself. The Fisherman’s Mary was made with Blue Ice Vodka, housemade Bloody Mary mix, and served with bamboo skewered shrimp, pimento stuffed olive, lime and a tasty pickled green bean. My partner went for the Serrano Margarita, made the way he likes it – hot. The drink featured Cuervo Tradicional Silver Tequila, De Kuyper Triple Sec, freshlime juice, a splash of fresh orange, organic agave nectar, and his favorite – hand-crushed fresh serrano chili with a requested extra application.

Along with strolling the streets and browsing the shops of Avalon,  must-do sfor any visitor to the island include a stop to see the latest exhibitions at the Catalina Museum for Art and History – see our earlier article on the Tiki Tales exhibition, running through September, and the recent, but now-closed, perfectly curated CROSSING WATERS: CONTEMPORARY TONGVA ARTISTS CARRYING PIMUGNA, both discussed in two earlier articles in this publication.

And, whatever you do, you can’t miss the Behind the Scenes tour at the Casino. Yes, there’s a considerably shorter tour that gives you just a glimpse of this beautiful building, but the 90 minute Behind the Scenes is the way to go, to explore the private screening room, sit down and watch the lights dim in the stunning theater, learn about murals, dressing rooms, the ballroom, and take in the views from the balcony.

Our guide was well-versed in the history of this palatial structure, which opened May 29, 2029, and served as a major achievement for the island’s then-estate holder, William Wrigley Jr. His vision to create a welcoming “playground for all” on the island included the casino theater and ballroom. The theater was among the first to screen a “talking picture.” The ballroom hosted all night dances that brought revelers on steamships to the island to swirl along to Big Band sounds, while partaking of non-alcoholic beverages in the undersea-themed lounges.

Another recommended dining experience is the Naughty Fox, a relative newcomer to Catalina’s cuisine. Here we enjoyed a lovely version of a classic Mai Tai – Vic’s features Don Q silver, Mysters dark rum, pineapple juice, orange juice, and orgeat syrup. My partner’s margarita with tajin rim was refreshing and bright. Our meal: a rich, dreamy  platter of elevated macaroni and cheese; and a trio of fresh-from-the-sea shrimp tacos, simple, and simply delightful. The meal is served with a street and bay view either at a hip bar with chartreuse seats or outdoors on a triangular patio.

And of course for tiki drinks, decor, and yummy sea-centric bar bites, the place to go is Luau Larry’s, a bit farther down Crescent Street, and open late, mentioned in last week’s look at Catalina Island.

So — what are you waiting for? Go ahead, enjoy an island getaway – without the hassles of TSA and a long flight.

  • Genie Davis; photos by Genie Davis and Jack Burke

It’s Always Tiki Time Somewhere at the Catalina Museum for Art and History

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Serving as a truly beautiful adjunct to the Catalina Museum for Art and History’s permanent collection, now through September 3rd, visitors to Catalina Island can enjoy the transporting exhibition Tall Tiki Tales. Curated by author, tiki scholar, and cinematographer Sven Kirsten, the widely encompassing show includes artifacts from films shot on the island, dining spots, and resorts, as well as and original books and artwork that enhance the understanding of a cultural phenomenae that shaped tastes and traditions – as well as wildly fun beverages – both on and off Catalina.

Frequently serving as a film set that helped to popularize tiki as an art form, Catalina has a rich history in the development of America’s happy obsession with all things tiki, including the bars and restaurants that grew nationwide during the 1930s.

A highlight of the well-curated exhibition is an interactive one – visitors can sit down at a cozy table in a replica tiki bar to experience a unique design by master tiki bar designer Bamboo Ben. Viewers are transported to a blissful paradise with the sound of pattering rain upon sitting down. The only thing missing is a classic beverage.

According to Johnny Sampson, the museum’s Deputy Director and Chief Curator, Catalina Island served as a major film set for movie adaptations of works such as Nordhoff and Hall’s Bounty Trilogy and The Hurricane, W. Somerset Maugham’s short story “Rain” and The Ebb Tide by Robert Louis Stephenson. “Hollywood quickly adapted these and other stories into movies, using Catalina Island as an accessible backlot for far away South Seas locales…we had Christian’s Hut from the set of Mutiny on the Bounty, the Chi Chi Club at the Isthmus and in Avalon, Hotel Waikiki, and Hurricane Cove—which even had lighting effects and fans to recreate the thrill of Hurricane for its patrons.”

The fascinating mix of photographs, original art, and collector’s items – as well as the one-of-a-kind tiki hut immersive experience, beautifully support another look at the island’s past, a stellar permanent historical collection touching on other areas of Catalina life, including other film shoots, Chicago Cubs memorabilia, a wide ranging survey of Catalina pottery and tile, and a collection of photographs, negatives, and films documenting island life from the early 1880s to the present.

Viewers will also observe early phone switchboards, the evolution of transportation from the mainland, sport fishing items, and a wonderful collection of Tongva and Gabrielino artifacts. The fine art collection includes photography, plein air painting, contemporary sculpture, and examples of architectural and graphic design.

Combined with Tiki Tales, viewers will find an absolute treasure trove of art and history, as the museum continues to live up to its name with deep dives into island life and vibrant, intelligent art exhibitions.

And, if Tiki Tales made you thirsty or hungry, there’s a quick solution for that. Walk on down Crescent street to Luau Larry’s. The indoor  thatched roof hut and bamboo walls and delightfully kitschy ocean-themed paintings and murals here are even joined by an historic tiki wood carving, hanging above the booth we choose to sit in, a happy coincidence.

We enjoyed  vibrantly colored Polynesian- style cocktails – a bright Blue Hawaiian and the bar’s signature tiki drink, a Wiki Wacker with Cruzan aged light rum, Parrott brand, pineapple/orange juice and grenadine. The latter comes with imbibers’ choice of straw hat or bumper sticker. The food was fine too –  fresh, savory popcorn scallops and shrimp, a well-seasoned, fresh poke, and a first-rate seared ahi platter served with ginger, wasabi, soy sauce, and a nicely sweet, crisp cole slaw.

Currently, the Catalina Island Company is offering a terrific getaway – the Tall Tiki Tales package, that combines a hotel stay at the beautifully updated Hotel Atwater and a boat ride to Catalina – we had the pleasure of traveling from Long Beach via Catalina Express,  a safe, swift, and beautiful passage across the blue Pacific, arriving with a great view of the historic Casino building upon arrival in Avalon Harbor. We experienced the journey two ways – indoors in the comfortable Commodore Lounge, replete with a glass of Brut Chandon, and outdoors, with the wind whipping our hair and an eye trained on pelicans on a long flight.

In an upcoming article, our stay at the Hotel Atwater, a look at the in-depth Behind the Scenes casino tour, and additional dining experiences. For now, go experience a few Tiki Tales at the Catalina Museum for Art and History – and then raise a toast to the exhibition at Luau Larry’s.

  • Genie Davis; photos by Genie Davis and provided from the museum’s collection

 

AC Lounge is a Vacation

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Located at the AC Hotel Los Angeles South Bay in El Segundo, AC Lounge makes a terrific get- away whether you’re staying at the hotel or not.

It’s a beautiful space with a sleek modern bar, cushy indoor seating – and a fireplace – and intimate outdoor seating with fire and water features. While the look is elegant and modern, it is also comfortable, which is in no small part due to the accommodating, friendly staff.

On a chilly winter (for Los Angeles) evening, we started with two wonderful locovore cocktails. Happy Hour, which runs from 3:30 to 6:30 weekdays make these well-made drinks an even bigger treat.

We had the Immune Boost and 72 Degrees. Immune Boost is a lighter spin on a gingery drink that is often made with whiskey. Here it is Tito’s Vodka, ginger beer, grapefruit bitters, turmeric, and a seasonal citrus, making it crisper and more citrusy, while not negating the lovely combination of tastes. 72 Degrees is also vodka based, with honey, passionfruit, basil, and lime, it is slightly sweeter, but again light and refreshing.

We started our dining with a surprisingly generous portion of warm olives marinated in-house in a fragrant citrus blend. Warning: it is almost impossible to stop eating them.

The roasted mushrooms with torn herbs were delicious; the flavors rich but not heavy.

Grilled salmon with spiced lentil stew was a perfect main course: the salmon was beautifully prepared and a surprisingly large portion for a very reasonable price. The lentil base was terrific, with a bite of spice and a texture that nicely contrasted with the silky fish.

We also enjoyed an avocado, tomato, and fresh crumbled cheese bruschetta on chiobatta bread – a meal in itself.

Along with an extensive small bites menu, lunch is served in the AC Lounge space as well. Both locals and hotel guests frequent, adding to the vibe of the welcoming servers and bartender. The hotel’s design team created the space, nicely melding the clean lines of minimalism with relaxing seating and sparkling fire walls and small waterfall outside. The variety of seating options means that guests can enjoy a serene space or a lively one.

All in all, it’s a vacation from the everyday in a modern new hotel you may just be vacationing in to begin with – or it makes a perfect spot for after-work drinks and noshing, or a relaxing date night.

AC Hotel and the AC Lounge is located at 2130 Maple Ave. in El Segundo

  • Genie Davis; photos: Genie Davis